The complete travel guide to Kenya      

Northern Frontier

Northern kenya is a vast, hot and desolate region. The landscapes in Northern Kenya are almost moonlike in their appearance and incredibly picturesque. The people of this region; the Samburu, the Turkana, the Gabra and the Rendille are also very picturesque and some of the most fascinating people in the world. Most tourists travel thousands of kilometres on dusty roads to see Lake Turkana – the Jade Sea. Set amidst arid mountains in the desert, the lake has a truly special character to it and it is definately one of the most beautiful lakes in the world.

Goat herders at Lake Turkana
Herders with their goats emerge like out of nowhere. Humans have lived in this area for millions of years and some of the earliest humanoid fossils was excavated in Sibiloi National Park on the eastern shore of Lake Turkana

The vast emptiness and “wild” feeling of the landscapes in Northen Kenya stands in stark contrast to the central highlands and here you can see nomadic tribesmen in traditional dresses with colorful ornamentation holding spears for protection and hunting. In the 21.st century it is still possible here to meet nomadic tribesmen in traditional dresses with colorful ornamentation holding spears for protection and hunting.


Lone camel south-west of lake Turkana

Despite Lake Turkana being the primary destination and ultimate goal for a safari to this part of kenya, one even more lasting impression of the region might be the people you meet on the way as one cannot cease to think about how their lives must be like in such challenging surroundings. If you are looking for “real” safari and an adventure of a lifetime we can say with confidence; Kenyas Northern Frontier District won’t disappoint you!


Chalbi desert is actually a seasonal lake but rain is sparse in this region and the lake bed is usually dry

There are lots of attractions in Kenyas Northern Frontier District and just outside Isiolo lies Samburu, Shaba and Buffalo Springs National Reserves. When you venture further north you will come to Marsabit National Park – a beautiful green oasis in the midst of a vast desert. From Marsabit you can cross the Chalbi desert to eventually approach Lake Turkana – the destination for most safaris to the area. Despite the whole region looking barren and desolate, the ecosystems are unique habitats with a rich and varied fauna.


Somali ostriches in Chalbi desert and Mount Kulal in the vicinity seen through sizzling hot air

In Kenyas Northern Frontier District you will find subspecies to the more commonly known. Grevy’s zebra for instance, has more slim and more dense stripes than their more southern living cousins (The common zebra). The reason for this might be explained in the higher temperatures in the region, as the black and white pattern provides a local cooling effect right above their skin. The giraffes in the region mostly consists of reticulated giraffes and the ostriches is a different subspecies (Somali ostrich). One of the endemic species of this region is the beautiful and graceful Giraffe Gazelle or Gerenuk.

Martial Eagle in flight Northern Kenya
Martial Eagle

The people of Northern Kenya

One of the most remarkable tribes your will meet when travelling into Kenyas Northern Frontier District is the Samburu. Related to the Masai, the Samburus have many similarities regarding cultural practices, adornments and language but while the masais are easily recognizable from red cloaks, the Samburus wears white, red or blue cloaks.

Making fire with sticks
Samburus making fire by rolling a stick in a small hole in a special kind of wood

The first adornment for any Samburu in life is a Lkereti or wrist belt for the newborn. Lkereti means dewclaw and it is the degenerated finger just above the hoof and it is worn on the right wrist.

Samburu women dancing
Samburu performing a traditional song and dance

Plate-shaped beaded necklaces Lkiripa are a most prominent adornment of both Masai and Samburu women and many wear several Lkiripa of different sizes at a time as well as combining them with wired beads necklaces Marinai twisted together. Hung over the piled beaded bundles, the Nkarawa or beaded plate chest adornments adds more colors to the already strikingly colorful adornments of the Samburu.

Samburu warrior with feather ornaments
Samburu moran (warrior) with a traditional headdress in Ol’Doinyo, Laikipia District

The adornments reflects the gender, age and social status of the person wearing them. For example the Samburu consider it unsuitable for uncircumsized boys to be well dressed because boys should not care much about their appearance. When they are about to be circumcized the boys start singing a circumcision song called Leberta and during this period they wear special black cloaks and other ritual adornments. The flowers Maawa are artificial flowers made out of cloth or plastic. They are placed on the head of Moran with a small comb and sometimes charms made of plastic or even tiny lights working on small batteries are used instead of the artificial flowers. The feather or Sirayo often comes from a guinea fowl and it is worn by the Moran and uncircumcized boys


Turkana girls in front of a traditional house

The newly circumcized boys are called Laibartani and they change adornments, but still wear the black cloaks. For one month after circumcision they carry a bow and arrow and shoot birds in the bush, after which there is a ritual called Imuget lo nkwenyi at which point the become moran. During this ritual, they change the colors of their attire by smearing their whole body with red ocher Lkaria and removing the black cloak.

Traditional hut on the shore of Lake Turkana
A local style house outside Loiyangalani

This dramatic change of colors from a dull black to vivid red metaphorically represents a change from chrysalis to butterfly and when the boys become moran, they suddenly start caring about their appearance and decorate themselves with beaded adornments provided by senior moran. The Turkana occupate some of Kenyas hottest and most arid places, mainly around Lake Turkana – the Jade Sea which is situated at an altitude of only 300m above sea level.


Aside from the colorful people, one of the most prominent features of Northern kenya is the camels

Camels are incredibly sturdy animals and therefore perfectly adapted to the harsh conditions in the desertlike Northern Kenya. The camels seem to wander about on their own, but most often the owners will be nearby and if they recognize a tourist photographing their animals without their permission, they might see this as an opportunity to ask for huge amounts of money for compensation. As when aiming your camera towards people in Kenya, it is a good idea when photographing livestock, to always ask for permission in advance.

Samburu village
Inside a Samburu Manyatta

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